An Adventure to West Dennis on Cape Cod

When I was making plans to visit Cape Cod, in mytook a ride with Al in his Mercedes and she compared
mind I always saw my goals as having fun . . . andit to one of my favorite cars from our past, my old
eating lobster. In the end we had lots of fun and I1955 Rambler . . . it wasn't a compliment. Peg always
had lots of lobster. Sorry, but we saw a 17 poundreferred to my '55 as "that dirty, ratty, stinky, loud
lobster in a preview tank and didn't eat him. Welittle Ramber." You can take a bus out to the Cape,
were there for the funeral of many of his relatives,but I do suggest that you do need a car to take full
however.For nearly ten years, our friend Al Burrageadvantage of the Cape's wonders. We rented a car
of West Seattle has been asking us to join him in hisfrom Alamo at Logan (the Boston Airport) and
cottage in West Dennis at Cape Cod. We were finallyexceeded a thousand miles on it in just over a
able to schedule a trip to Massachusetts and notweek.As I mentioned, I felt it was my job and goal
surprisingly, we loved it. Al rents his cottage, Theto eat lobster while in New England. Al took me to
Mainstay, out during the "season" but visits Cape CodSwan River Seafood Restaurant and Fish Market.
before the season and then again after the seasonTheir lobstermen catch fresh lobster daily on Cape
to first prepare the cottage for guests, and then toCod. You could eat at the restaraunt or buy from
close the cottage for the winter.The cottage is athe market, but even at the market you could order
three bedroom home that features a glassed-in porchyour seafood cooked. For example you could tell
as well and an outside shower for getting rid of sandthem which lobster you wanted and tell them when
and salt before entering the house. The home has ayou wanted it cooked. You could then stop in and
crushed shell driveway and walkway. Typical of Capepick it up and take it home thereby enjoying your
Cod homes it has a cedar pole fence across thelobster in your own kitchen or dining room. Swan
front and down one side of the yard. It's painted aRiver had a great selection of fresh seafood AND
fresh looking aqua with maroon shutters. Onethey also offered cooked lobster meat. While we
bedroom has twin beds and two bedrooms have awere there it was priced at $29.95 a pound. This
double bed. The kitchen has a dishwasher, range,seemed a little pricey to me, but we went to some
refridgerator, and microwave. We can attest that it isother market and they offered cooked lobster for
very comfortable. The Mainstay was our center of$5.00 more per pound. I thought about the
operation, while we were on Cape Cod. Each day wepossibilities for several days and then we returned to
would venture forth to places like Boston, Wood'sSwan River on the way to lunch. I pointed out which
Hole, Provincetown and then return to Thetail I wanted and Peg did the same. She picked a
Mainstay.While Al lives in West Dennis he has plentysmaller one . . . a much smaller one. I sat in the car
of opportunity to visit with people and scout outand ate mine. Peg had two bites, shared a bite with
good places to go. Once we arrived Al kept up aAl and then took the rest of her lobster home. This
steady litany of places we could go and things wewas the second best lobster I had in Massachusetts.
could do and should do. Even when we ignored himIt was big, tender, and sweet. The snack costs us
he still made suggestions. We took him up on mostabout twenty dollars, but it was well worth it.The
of them . . . and never found a bad one.One of theopen sign seemed to always be in the window, but
best places to find reasonable priced local goods is atthey were only open if the owner's green van was in
the local thriftstore. We scored big. Al bought athe parking lot. The owners of Marathon Seafood
miniature brass cannon for $2.00, and Peg bought(Peggy and Teddy Stoilas) are Greek, hence the
two framed handmade lace collars. She was thrilled. Alname. Like many places on the Cape you order at
finally prevailed on a suggestion and took Peg tothe counter and then the food is brought to you.
Cuffy's of Cape Cod. The two of them brought backSince I had just eaten a lobster tail I chose the fried
purchases of a couple of hundred dollars . . . or so itoysters. They were small, but there was a ton of
seemed. Eventually we had to purchased anotherthem. Al chose his usuall scallops and Peg ordered
suitcase to accommodate souvineer shopping.Ilamb . . . she likes lamb and it's always best to order
managed to confine my souvineer shopping to Thelamb at a Greek restaurant. If we had been back in
Music Meister and the Christmas Tree Shops. Al lovesTacoma, Peg would have taken the bones home to
bargains. For the wives of my friends I bought Teemake broth. As it was, the bones were picked pretty
Pee Dreams herbal tea. I bought my golfing buddies aclean. Teddy and Peggy were friendly and happy to
Cape Cod golf ball each and a box of rattlesnakeplease.I can generally find where I am going. If I've
repellant, which contained some odd little bundles ofgot a map I can get there. This philosophy doesn't
aromatic herbs and spices. I'm not sure what theylend itself to traveling on Cape Cod. Confusion reigns.
do, but I never saw a snake nearby. I gave a box toFor example the town of Dennis is made up of five
the son of a friend on his way to a party in Seattle.villages: North Dennis, South Dennis, East Dennis,
He held one of the bundles up to his nose. I warnedWest Dennis, and Dennisport. Towns and villages
him, don't let the police search you. I don't know thatblend together. We set off on an adventure one day
either the herbal teas or the snakebite repellant hadto visit NOAA's National Marine Fisheries Service
anything to do with local Indian heritage, but the giftsNortheast Fisheries Science Center at Woods Hole.
were bought in Massachusetts, which should countWe wanted to see the NOAA Aquarium. We knew
for something.Generally, each day started off thewhere Woods Hole was. We could see Woods Hole
same. I would rise earlier than Al or Peg. I would turnon the map, but like NOAA on the ocean, we had to
on the coffee maker and then sometimes go for asubmerge ourselves in the countryside to find Woods
drive or a walk. Returning I would knock on Al's doorHole . . . only to find the aquarium closed.We enjoyed
and he would be up in a jiffy and ready to go. Iour drive in the country. We saw many rock walls,
knew we would probably have a big lunch and a bigwhich reminded us of Minute Men and Lexington and
dinner, so breakfast I wanted to keep light . . . butConcord. We saw many shops and Inns. The road
within reason. My first breakfast in West Dennis wasthrough the country side dipped and climbed through
at the Good Friends Cafe, which is only a few yardslovely cool, green lush growth. The only frustration
from the local post office.I never like to eat atwas the long search.Once we found Woods Hole, we
national chains. I prefer local establishments. Youstill had trouble finding the aquarium. We ended up
never know what you'll find. Al had eaten at thefollowing an arrow out of town half a mile into a
restaurant before under its old name, but never atresidential area. We drove back and found the arrow
the Good Friends. I saw on the menu somethingagain. It was on the building where the aquarium was!
called "grilled bread" and I asked the waiter, a youngWe peeked in the windows, and Peg walked out to
man named Tchigo (I hope that's spelled correctly,the harbor behind the facility for a few pictures. It
I'm not sure with the accent and all) what it was.just never occured to us that an aquarium would be
The bread is homemade by his father, who was aclosed on Saturday. We should have visited the
cook at a different restaurant before the purchaseinternet site for details. We enjoyed the ride back
of the Good Friends where he is now cook andand ended the evening with a movie.I don't know
owner. It was excellent. A good hefty slice is cut andhow many times I drove past this sign that greets
then grilled until warm and aromatic. It's served with avisitors to West Dennis. The sign promises $12.99
dollop of butter on top. There are three kinds oflobster at Sundancer's. Everytime I saw it I thought
grilled bread: apple, cinnamon raisin, and cranberry. Ito myself, we should eat there. They have a deck
ordered both the apple, and the cranberry. The breadthat looks out to the water. They have music
was good without the butter. It was delightful withseveral nights a week. They have a river cruise most
the butter. It was good dunked in coffee. It wasafternoons. Oh, well. Sometimes you have to make
good just plain grilled. I shared the apple grilled breadsacrifices . . . and leave adventures for the next
with Al, but never offered the cranberry to him. Ivisit.Al was determined that we would eat in one
REALLY liked the cranberry. Sometimes they use thenight. Like Peg and I, he loves to cook. Al was in
bread in their French toast. I'll have to try thatcharge of a simple meal. I bought salad makings, and
another time.I ate at the Good Friends my last day insome fresh greenbeans. We had prawns, scallops
West Dennis by myself. Again, I just wanted a little(cooked to absolute perfection), seafood pate, clam
something. I ordered the corn beef hash expectingstuffing, rice and white wine. We stuffed ourselves
something from a can. What I got was homemadesilly. We ended up with scallops and prawns leftover.
corned beef and onions. I don't think there was evenThere was food everywhere. Al looked around and
a potato anywhere in sight with it. While I wassaid, "It looks like the food fairy visited my home and
wolfing it down, I almost ordered some hashbrownspuked." We sipped a little more wine. Two days later
to mix in. When I walked in and sat down, TchigoAl got up at five in the morning and made himself a
asked if I was waiting for my friend. It had been arice and scallop snack . . . then went back to bed. He
week since I had been there and he remembereddidn't join me that morning for breakfast out.I really
me and Al. Now, that is why I like small, mom andloved the mornings on Cape Cod. The bogs and
pop, family run cafes if I can find them. Another mealestuaries change with the tides and the fog. I would
or two and I would have been behind the countervisit the same places day after day and was never
helping my good friends Tchigo and his papa out atdisappointed. I was also rarely disappointed in our
their Good Friends Cafe. Very nice.As we left thechoices for meals. Al and I dropped Peg off at a
restaurant a couple drove up and asked us directionslaundromat one morning and then returned as she
to Dennisport. Al complied. I think this is funnywas finishing folding her clothes. There are two shops
because as we drove all over the cape we often hadnearby we decided to visit and tucked in by them
to consult maps and get our bearings. Driving is awas a little cafe. The waitress was funny and
constant state of confusion on the Cape. When I leftfriendly. The food was excellent. I had a tuna Ceasar
the restaurant a week later by myself I saw a mansalad. I asked if it was from a tuna fillet or just out
with his car parked and the hood up. The licenseof a can. "Tuna salad made from a can," was my
plate showed that he had been an American POWanswer. It was excellent. I might make it on my own
(I'm guessing in World War II). I drove up beside himone day. Al had a Reuben sandwich on a "bulky" roll.
and asked if he needed assistance. He said he didn'tHe had to ask about the bulky. It was chewey and
need any help. He had the engine belts replaced andyet soft. The corned beef and cheese spilled out. He
his wife complained that they were squeeking. Themanaged to eat it all.It's always tough to live up to
Vet, with two hearing aids, couldn't hear them, so hehigh expectations. Al highly recommended Captain
had to open the hood and stick his head down nearParker's Pub for dinner. He raved about it. We saved
the engine. We had a nice chat. If it hadn't been myit for our final meal in Cape Cod. The food was good,
last day, I would have begged him to tell me storiesbut the restuarant was loud, we were seated by the
of his military career.One of Al's favorite places todoor, and the waitress was abrupt. She also forgot
stop is the Music Meister. Owner Lew Taylor hasto serve us bread with our meal. On the plus side,
access to DVDs galore. He only has some in stock,however the food was good. I followed Al's advice
but can order almost whatever you need. Knowingand ordered the seafood pasta. The seafood included
how much I love classic TV and movies, Al wantedlobster, prawns and mussels in a heavy cream sauce.
me to meet Lew. I was reluctant. Al told me what aI wouldn't have thought the mussels would work
great guy he was. He told me how Lew used to bewith the cream sauce, but they were excellent. I had
on the rodeo circuit. I didn't care. I had other thingsto walk over to the service counter and retrieve a
to think about. I pulled into the driveway of the localtable dispenser of cheese. This irritated me. Al's
library instead of the Music Meister because I sawscallops were great. He knows what he likes. Peg
that they had WiFi. Unfortunately, they were closed.ordered mussels, which surprised me. Like mine they
I was disappointed. Al said, let's go visit Lew. He's thewere wonderful with a nice broth. I had to catch the
board president for the library . . . small towns . . .waitress, though and ask for bread, so Peg could
don't you just love 'em? We pulled in to the parkingenjoy sopping up the broth with the bread. This is
lot of The Music Meister. It was after closing hours.one of the joys of ordering mussels or steamed
Lew and his wife Kathy, an expert seamstress, wereclams. Broth and bread are major requirements. The
still there.Lew confessed that I could connect in thethree of us shared an apple crisp with vanilla ice
library parking lot with my laptop, but I didn't bringcream.After finishing our meals at Captain Parker's
my laptop to Cape Cod. I was hoping for a WiFiPub, we walked behind to the parking lot to the
Cafe. Lew said, "I don't think you'll find one on theZooAquarium. Peg sat on Flipper to rest in the cool
Cape. We're kind of low-tech out here." Peg and Ievening breeze. Our eight days on Cape Cod had
consoled ourselves by looking over some Celtic CDsworn us out. Even though we had cut our activities
that Lew had for sale. Peg bought three and headedto almost nothing for the last day, we were all still
towards the car to listen to Maura O'Connell (one oftired. I think we were all a little sad that it was
our favorites), while I talked to Lew about Celticalmost over as well.We returned to The Mainstay
singers and groups. I went outside and Al and Pegand packed our bags. I dropped off to sleep about
were looking at a tree with long pods on it. None ofeleven. My alarm was set for 3:30 AM. We left West
us knew what it was.Al went back in to talk to Lew.Dennis about 4:15 AM and left the Cape in the driving
He didn't know what the tree was either. Laterrain. We left Cape Cod, but our memories will take us
Kathy called with the name, Catalpa. We stopped inback anytime.I think Al was a little lonely when he
to see Lew several more times. Once before hewoke up to an empty house (I think there was still a
opened, once after he closed and twice when hefull refridgerator, however) that Thursday morning.
was actually open. He was always friendly and alwaysWe hadn't even picked up our baggage at Sea-Tac
helpful. I was looking for a song I had heard in thewhen we had a call from Al on Peg's cell phone. The
background in the feature film, Saint Ralph. It was aflight on Alaska went well. Excellent service from
Canadian film and I thought the singer was probablyfriendly people . . . just like most of our stay in West
Celtic. Lew searched and gave me the news: JackDennis on Cape Cod.Don Doman is a published author,
Ingram from Texas. The song was Goodnightvideo producer, and corporate trainer. He owns the
Moon.Al keeps a car at West Dennis. He loves (andbusiness training site Ideas and Training ( which he
tolerates) the car and when he leaves for the seasonsays is the home of the no-hassle "free preview" for
he parks it between trees so anyone wanting tobusiness training videos. Don and his wife Peg also
steal it would have a tough time towing it away. Itravel in the Pacific Northwest writing of their fun and
think Al's car is safe. The car has a few rustadventures.
problems and is covered with pollen and mildew. Peg